Kandahar, Saskatchewan

Even driving by at 100 km/hr, you can easily count the slouching clapboard houses of Kandahar. On the east side of the hamlet there is a large boxy building as well, that I believe was once a school. From the highway you can see that all the windows have been broken out, like teeth. And the faded brown siding, having lost all desire, has been sliding off for years.

But Kandahar was once famous for its steakhouse. I remember because The Kandahar Steak House always got mentioned 70 miles east, down the Yellowhead, at Yorkton’s CKOS. At that distance I knew it had to be special. Those were the juicy tender years. An earlier time when I didn’t know businesses had to pay for getting mentioned on the television. I thought that places just had to be good to get advertising.

I remember the Sunday my parents went for a drive with their friends with the express purpose of going to for a steak. They may have gone more than once but I remember that day, because I was instantly envious and vowed that one day I would do the same. And I did…one weekend, some ten years later, while driving back from Saskatoon where I was enrolled in an Agriculture diploma program at the University.

It was early evening when I drove up the gravel drive to the steakhouse. I stepped through a paint blistered door into a red-carpeted room. There was no one else in the restaurant. I found a table and sat down.

A thin, wrinkled, Chinese man came and asked me what I’d like. I asked for a menu and he obliged. Was he annoyed or surprised? My steak was tough, quite tough. A mistake perhaps? Perhaps not. Perhaps they had been tough for some time. I ate in dim silence. Years of anticipation spattered and burned off like bits of marbled fat. It was a gristly, uncomfortable and ultimately lonely meal. In less than a year, after my only visit, the windows would be boarded up and eventually, I suppose, the building pushed in and hauled away. There isn’t a trace of the place today.

Today, even though I suspect that some of its 15 houses are occupied, Kandahar, Saskatchewan couldn’t feel much more desolate or unfortunate. And naturally, one wonders about that name, a name–bestowed upon the settlement by C.P.R. at the turn of the century–meant to honour the British victory in Kandahar, Afghanistan, in the 1880s.

Still, I can hear the engaging voice of Linus Westburg on CKOS, and see the large sign atop the burgundy restaurant at the entrance of town, and then the presentation of red place-mat, silver steak knife, and the black-brown cross-grilled T-bone on a white plate. A meat-eater’s Shangri-la.

42 Comments

  1. I started an email and then pushed the wrong button when about half way through the message, so if you got half a message that is why. If Sam would have been there it would have been an excelent steak. I ate there several times, back in the fifties. He was probably long gone by the time you ate there. Actually his son Tong ran the place for a while and then moved to a small town called LeRoy.

  2. Excellent post. I drove by the town on the way to Yorkton to play a gig at the casino. I am only 19 but a band mate mentioned the steak place which he used to stop at when he went to visit his parents in Manitoba. Only building I could spot from the road was the big rectangular building that must have been a school at some time.

    What year did you stop for a steak? 1980s?

  3. That’s a great recollection/story. I also remember the days you describe. CKOS, Linus, Roger etc. The place was definately famous around those parts. I heard it went downhill after Sam died. Everytime I pass the town I think of it. One day some enterprising family will resurrect the old. Those were the good old days.

  4. My husband and I stopped at the Kandahar Steak House in the fall of 1971 because like you we had heard so much about it on CKOS. The night we arrived there we were also the only ones in the restaurant, however our steak was the best we have ever had. We were actually just telling friends about it a couple of weeks ago. Wish I had the recipe for what he used on the steaks. They were very delicious.

  5. I drove by there on my way back from Saskatoon just before New Years and was thinking about the Steak House. I thought the place was still open in the 90s. I never went there but I talked about it on the drive between Russell and Saskatoon.

  6. Lived in Kandahar from 1965 to 1974. Dad ran the post office.Used to swim in quill lake have to rinse off the salt. Would like to hear from others that lived there

  7. Kelly Jordan – I remember you Your Dad used to stop at my house every morning because he drove the bus that took me to school in Kandahar – Bill Kizlyk was one of my teachers back then . and in high school years I would transfer the school bus to a bigger bus which took us to Wynyard

  8. The rectangular building that has been mentioned a couple of times was indeed a school – the “new” school for grades one to eight, built in about 1964, if I remember correctly. I went there. Also went to Sam’s for steaks (well, when I was a little kid, I didn’t have steak, but my parents did) when he had the old café downtown Kandahar, and then when they built the new place (the one people are talking about here) next to the highway. There are about 15 residents of Kandahar still – a far cry from its “heyday” when it had the café, a Co-op store and gas station, bulk oil dealer, elevator agent, blacksmith, and the post office. (And Kelly’s dad and mom not only ran the post office there for quite a while, his dad also drove the bus I took to school for years!)

  9. thanks for writing about the “steak house” remember hearing the add over and over as a kid, always wondered about the place and how a dorky little place like that could afford the add on TV ,never did stop in usually went some other way to S’toon and back

  10. If I remember correctly what made the steakhouse famous was that John G DIEFENBAKER had many a steak there and thoroughly enjoyed it. There was a letter attesting to that fact on display, Went by there many times from Ituna to Saskatoon or Warman.

  11. Funny how reading these comments bring back old memories. Kandahar came up this morning while I was talking to my son. I had mentioned to him that I had often gone there as a child with my extended family from Watson and Jansen to have steak suppers. That was back when Old Sam was still running the show in the original restaurant and he told my dad his secrets. The meat had to hang for 28 days, you only cook steaks on a very hot grill, and lots of soya sauce (I think he used MSG as well). My favourite memory were the onions sliced paper thin with sugar and vinigar that the lady we called Grandma cut in the back room. That had to be 50 years ago at least though… time flies.

    1. My husband still likes to make those onions in sugar and vinegar for “special” steak dinners! Like others, he first had them at Sam’s Steak House.

  12. This all happened in the late 30’s. Our farm was approximately 1 1/2 miles west of Kandahar, immediately off the highway. I used to walk to school daily, no school buses then. When walking through town occasionally I would hear Sam from the steak house call out: “Little Lonnie with the Lunch Bucket.” Did not know at the time just how honored I was.

  13. I am looking for a photo of Sam’s Steakhouse in Kandahar Saskatchwan for use in a documentary film. Are you aware of any?
    Thank you in advance,

  14. Sam’s New World Cafe, downtown Kandahar, Saskatchewan. I only visited and dined there once, summer of 1963, but I remember it well.
    A T Bone steak cooked in a cast iron frying pan on a wood burning stove served topped with raw onion and so large it hung over the plate. A potato and trimmings served on a side plate.
    Fantastic. Apple pie and ice cream for dessert. All for $2.50 and yes, Mr Sam proudly showed us letters from Prime Minister John Diefenbaket as well as other well known individuals who had dined there on mouth watering steaks.
    Mr Sam was a congenial host and shared a tea pot with us.
    We had arrived late afternoon to an empty premise and were amazed to see the premise full to capacity when we left at the dinner hour.

  15. I grew up on a farm South about 5 miles and 2 miles west of Kandahar spent my young years going to school and Kandahar eventually to wynyard the school that stands there now in Kandahar I attended my mom and dad used to curl at the curling rink in Kandahar two sheets of natural ice and Lenny was the caretaker. I haven’t been back there in many years but have lots of pictures from the farm and lots of good memories

  16. We were a TB X-ray crew travelling parts of Saskatchewan with a Lead lined van. 1956.
    Our crew Chief was Rod Thorfinson who grew up in Wynyard Sask.
    Rod bought our crew of 6 – Steaks ? in Kandahar a couple of times
    Any special drinks we had to bring in ourselves ??
    PS
    Rod retired as Chief Director of Health Science Centre in Winnipeg ( wife @ Moose Jaw )
    One of our crew was John Spooner who became an MD practicing in Dauphin Man.

  17. Hi Stephen. I am passionate about history. I have a book about the history of all of that area and settlers. I have permission to metal detect the school area. I will let you know what I find if any. Nice little story. Hope if find something personalized.

  18. Fabulous read! My grandmother was born and raised in Kandahar. Her name was Lillian Auchstaetter. I am sure that the Lenny you refer to as the caretaker of the curling rink was my great uncle Lenny Auchstaetter. My great grandfather ran the lumber yard in Kandahar. I visited Kandahar twice – once in 1969 and once in 1973 when I had the absolute pleasure of meeting my great-grandparents and Sam at “Sam the Chinaman’s” steak house. I didn’t have steak, but I believe we had a piece of pie. I grew up listening to stories about life in Kandahar – the curling bonspiels, the baseball games, the dust storms and was amazed to see that they had raised 9 children in a 2 bedroom home without running water…. My family has a copy of the “Reflections of the Quills”, which I believe is probably the book Garnet is referring to. This story brought back many memories for my mother and I here in Southern Ontario!

    1. I remember Lenny very well he used to look after the ice in the curling rink every time we came and watched Mom and Dad Pearl he used to buy his chocolate bars he was always a good guy and always love talking to him

  19. I have moved to Kandahar this past summer. I was retiring and looking for a very quiet small place where I could spend my years gardening, birding, watching wildlife, reading, painting, well you get the idea. As I came from a warmer province I was warned about the cold, the cold winds, the isolation, the Cold! Funny, but I just love it here. If you dress for it nothing beats a walk in the almost everyday sunshine, the huge blue sky, Partridges coming by for breakfast and sharing with the small birds. The quiet as you walk especially in early morning or just before sunset. The neighbours, and there are about 8 or so are helpful, friendly, love their little community and share what they know and what they have if you need help, they are there. For someone who rarely has the inclination or need to go to “town” this is Paradise. And yes, the old weathered school is still here. Can see it out my front windows. Would miss it if gone so hoping it stands for a good long time. In summer the lake is amazing, may not be a boaters spot out there but it changes with the weather and so blue most days. There are still properties for sale here and at the low prices being asked I think, now that remote working is a Thing, I may not always have such lovely solitude. But hopefully not too soon.

  20. My family came from Kandahar. My dad and his father-in-law helped build that school. My grandmother was the custodian for many years. I remember when my dad took my brother, my aunts, and me to Quill Lake to swim. Because grandma didn’t have running water, we stopped at the school to use an art sink to wash the salt off our little bodies. My mom and her sister worked for Sam. Everyone was super fond of Sam. My parents had their wedding reception at the hall. I have amazing memories from my childhood of visiting my grandma in Kandahar!

  21. Hello there,

    Of course, I do not expect any of those who found the Kandahar in Saskatchewan to be alive and around but I do hope that some of their descendants have written or at least oral stories and memories to lead us to the war in Kandahar which, they meant to be reminded or remembered. Do you, by chance, know of any? Are you in touch with any? Are you able to put me in touch with any? I will be grateful if you help and I do appreciate meeting those who can be my guests in BC or possibly, somewhere in Saskatchewan.

    Sincerely yours,

    Nassy

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